The internet is a funny old place, especially in the small world of casual websites. The forums in particular are breeding grounds for the elitists, who actually have very little to be elitist about. Wade through the pages of 'is this casual?' and 'who has the most obscure adidas?' and occassionally, you can unearth something of genuine interest. I tend steer clear of the other forums nowadays, as the so called elitists and their unfounded snobbery bores me to tears.
The key for me for the modern casual is to find new brands and unearth new trends, and the internet, like the European sports stores of the 1980's, can be the catalyst to producing something genuinely new and exciting, as oppossed to just whatever Oi Polloi have stocked this season.

Over the last few months on our forum, much has been brewing over the launch of Ma.Strum, the new engineered fabric label using the archive designs of legendary Stone Island designer Massimo Osti, but brought up to date by former Victorinox designer Donrad Duncan. Some might say that it's not that original to find Ma.Strum, after all the pedigree of Osti and Duncan gives it an instant attraction to casuals. However what is really interesting, is the designs, fabrication and cut are genuinely innovative and creative, whilst all the time catering to aesthetics most casuals hunt for in their clothes. To top it off, the pricing is not ridculous. Prices for jackets start for as little as 299 gbp. Now available in Harrods in London and other reputable stockists.

Labels: ma.strum, news

Below is an interview with writer/director Nick Love. His films include 'Goodbye Charlie Bright', 'The Football Factory', 'The Business', and 'Outlaw'. Nick speaks to us about the forthcoming film 'The Firm' as well his interest and fascination with the 80's casual scene...

Thanks for taking the time out of your busy schedule to answer a few questions Nick. Like me you grew up in South East London, what first brought your attention to the subculture commonly known as 'casual' and what got you hooked?
The first time I saw someone dressed in casual wear was around 1983, when I was no more than 13 years old, sitting round the flats in Thames Street which is on the Greenwich/Deptford border. One of the older boys (now sadly dead) walked up smoking a joint and wearing a full electric blue Ellesse tracksuit, a deerstalker hat and a pair of Diadora borg elites. He looked the bollocks and I so wanted to be like him. He went to Millwall and was one of the chaps. From then on it became an obsession for me. I saw more and more boys at football wearing Italian sportswear (Fila, Sergio Tacchini and so on) - and finally I got a Lacoste t-shirt and that's were it started - I never looked back!

You've written and directed a number of cult films such as 'Goodbye Charlie Bright', 'The Football Factory', 'The Business' and 'Outlaw' - all of which have some link to the football scene. How much of an influence do you think football and terrace fashion for that matter, has on the working classes both now and say 25 years ago?
Certainly all of my film work has been influenced by the casual/terrace/football culture. I was an adolescent at the time of the casuals and I've always believed that your teenage years are when you are most receptive to cultural/fashion influences. I remember men in their 20's telling me I looked like a fucking idiot in Fila BJ shorts and t-shirts when I was 14 or 15, and that's because in their teens they'd worn flares and big collared shirts, so they couldn't see beyond what had influenced them. You can only really understand that in retrospect because when you're in the middle of a revolution (which is what I thought the casual movement was), you can't imagine there's an other way of life. Clearly the casual clothing and general 80's fashion had a huge impact on my film-making as it's now appeared in two of my films. 'The Business' being the first were it was simply the fashion of the time for the main character Frankie, and now with 'The Firm' where the clothes are almost a driving force behind part of the film, where having the right clothes is an intrinsic part of the story. Fashion plays a part in all my films (apart from 'Outlaw'), as I'm very militant about having the right clothes for the era/mood of the film. Incidentally, I think men's fashion for the working classes/terrace fans, has lost it's way a bit in the past few years. I loved the early Stone Island and CP Company stuff, but it all seems a bit similar to me now. There was a time where fashion was about standing out and making a statement - now it seems about blending in and not being noticed. It's probably just my age!

It's obvious you have a passion for the tennis chic sportswear era of casual culture, is this for you a historical fashion interest or were you just as passionate in your youth?
Tennis wear chic was an absolute passion when I was a teenager. It's not something I picked up later in life, and then became a retrospective fan. For me it was a way of life. I could bore you with a very long story about how I got my first Lacoste t-shirt (red and white stripes), but it's a whole new interview! Suffice to say I was deep into the whole thing between 82 and 85. Me and my mates were always buzzing around the west end, stealing gear out of Nick-Nacks, Lilywhites and Olympus etc. We lived and breathed Fila, Tacchini, Ellesse, Pringle, Lyle & Scott, Diadora (I could go on forever!). When we were kids you simply had to have the right clobber. You were a pikey if you didn't - end of.

It's commonly accepted that Londoners were late to the casual scene, but many Londoners hold the belief that it was them that took the look forward from Peter Storm cagoules and adidas trainers. What's your view on how the scene developed in London in the early 80's?
This is subjective because as I said earlier, everyone who's involved in a revolution can't see beyond their point of view - nothing exists beyond the wall. But it's fair to say, that although Londoners (me included) thought they were the centre of the universe, there weren't many London teams in Europe at the end of the 70's/early 80's which is when the casual scene kicked off - largely due to being able to obtain Italian/Spanish sportswear on the continent - so in short, as far as my memory serves me (and I was shooting up sulphate at the time) the scousers were the first team in England to wear the tennis wear. It seemed to spread south after a season up north. I've always admired Liverpool and Manchester boys for their style and swagger, and while I may seem only interested in London films, it's simply because that's all I know. You don't have to be a genius to work out several cool styles and movements have been started in Liverpool or Manchester. Enough said.

What would you say is your most prized fashion items?
Nowadays I dress like a middle aged camp Italian on the Riviera! I can't get away with wearing Fila Terrinda's (which was definitely my most prized item from the 80's) and adidas Forest Hills etc, so I play with Loro Piana and Hermes as labels. Although you'll never see me in any other t-shirt than a Ralph Lauren, purely for great pastel shades and durability.

There is a worry amongst a few casual purists that a re-make of such an iconic film such as 'The Firm' will not do the original justice. Is this a remake for a remakes sake or do you feel the original lacked something?
There are several reasons for me making 'The Firm'. Firstly, it's important to stress that my film is an adaptation, not so much a remake. To simply remake 'The Firm', or any other great film for that matter, would be cynical unless there was another story to be told, a new angle to be exposed, or a new experience to be had - and that's exactly what I've done. The rivalry between Bex and the Yeti still exists as it did in the original, but it sits behind the story of Dom (who only plays a small part in the original) who is a young wannabe casual, and is drawn into the world of Bex and The Firm. He's a dresser and is as much into the fashion as the idea of running with the firm and fighting, and at the centre of the film is his relationship with Bex. I would tell you more, but I'd be giving the film away! Point is, it's very different from the original - it's set in or around 1984 and I made the story personal to me in so far as it's about casuals and the experience of joining a gang, whereas the original isn't. My film is very much an authentic celebration of the early 80's casual era, something that I haven't yet seen in a film. The film is drenched in big firms, soul and jazz funk music, and of course more 80's sports fashion that you'd see in Lilywhites! It's also worth mentioning that the original film was the sole reason I got into making films. I literally saw it on TV in 89, had an epiphany and decided I wanted to make films. The next week I was running around Soho trying to get a job as a tea boy on film sets, so the film clearly had a big impact on me. It was the first film I'd ever seen that spoke to me in a vernacular I knew, about people I knew and places I knew. It was fucking powerful. I really think I had another and equally interesting story to tell. See it for yourself and you can judge it against the original. Of course some purists will condemn it before they've seen it, but I'm more than proud of it.

Finally, some casuals have said that your long-standing relationship with Danny Dyer and Tamer Hassan has in many ways diluted your credibility. Many see Dyer in particular becoming a caricature of himself. How do you respond to those criticisms?
This is a tricky question to answer - but a very valid one, and I think the answer lies in the fact that most of the cast in 'The Firm' have never been in front of a camera before. There is no Dyer in 'The Firm'. Danny and I made my first film together, and since then he has become a friend and something of a talisman for me. I have no control over what he chooses to do away from me work-wise, he's his own man. I was asked to get involved with 'The Real Football Factories' and I said no straight away. I see myself as a purist, and for me, 'The Real Football Factories' was a dilution of a brand I had created. Ultimately I want to be remembered as the one who didn't sell out, but as we all know, the more success you have, the harder that becomes. Danny has a family and a mortgage so he has to pay the bills, and there are so few films being made in Britain that they won't pay the bills alone. I understand why he's gone down that road, but in truth I wish he hadn't, and he knows that. I've never hidden my feelings about some of his choices. For 'The Firm' I knew I had to change direction, and I spoke about it with Danny and told him I was moving on. I know it sounds a bit strong, but after several years of working together, we developed a bond that goes beyond just a job. 'The Firm' has a fresh and exciting cast, mostly never seen before, and to be honest, it's the best decision I could have made for the film. Hopefully, people will watch the film with no baggage or preconceptions. I've always believed Danny is a talented actor, otherwise I wouldn't have put him in my first four films. It would be great to see him really challenged in future roles, but people seem to keep casting him in similar parts or keep wanting him to play roles from our previous films. Anyway, fuck all that - this is about 'The Firm' - a film that represents a forgotten sub culture, an era, a revered tribe, a revolution, friendships, fashion, music, bullying, rivalry, warfare and much much more - I truly think 'The Firm' is my best film and I hope you do too.

FootballCasual.com would like to thank Nick for taking the time to talk with us.

Labels: interview, news, nick love, the firm

There seems to be a buzz brewing about Nick Love's latest project 'The Firm'. Much was made of the impending release of 'Awaydays' based on the book by Kevin Sampson, as being the most accurate refelction of the fashion. However, most lads feel the true development of casual culture came in the early 80's when the introduction of high-end sportswear such as Sergio Tacchini and FILA made its appearance on the terraces. The tennis chic look is the most associated look with casual culture, and Nick Love again has a chance to use his passion for this era with this new vehicle. 'The Business' was a catalyst to the rise in interest again in the vintage sportswear of Sergio Tacchini and FILA.
So what about 'The Firm'? Many are concerned that an attempt at a remake of a classic football film would only end in disaster, but with Nick Love there seems to be a genuine passion for the attention to detail when it comes to the fashion. It's loosely based on Allan Clarke's 1989 BBC film, but brought back to 1984 and vieiwing from a different character's viewpoint. Our friends at www.80scasualclassics.co.uk were very involved in the wardrobe development for the film, and many of the classic items featured will be available to buy on their site soon. The film is due out in the Autumn, and we are interested to see if the plot and story will match the effort taken on the clothing side. I'm sure many like us, will reserve final judgment when the film is eventually released. See the site here www.thefirm84.com

Labels: news, nick love, the firm

So after launching two years ago, we've finally got around to giving the site an overall facelift. We've decided to give it more of a photographic edge as sometimes photos can say more than a thousand words.
There's still a few bugs to iron out, and more content to add, but we hope you like what we've done so far.

Labels: news

Last time you read my blog thing, I'd finished wanking and had a butchers hook on some 'casual' (what a wank name for a sub culture) football site. It's been a while and I've gotten accustomed to how the site works and that. I haven't made any friends or anything cause, to be honest, I'm not on there to be all paly; especially as most of them are old enough to be my kids. I've posted the odd topic just to get a response mostly in the music forum as, have I've said before, I love my music. Most of the older lads know there shit. Can't all remember there names but some Swedish or Norwegian cunt called Spiteful seems to know a lot about Ska so I might and I mean might, have a chat with him on that subject. Then there's Mr. Fingers (fucking dodgy name if ever I saw one) seems to know a bit about punk. Not really my thing as much but least it's not O fucking asis. Don't get me wrong. They were good in the early 90s but what a load of wank they are now. Fucking can't stand the cunts. I'd love to knock that monkey swaggering cunt Noel's teeth in. Probably improve his looks.

So apart from wanking and looking through stupid 'casual' sites, what have I been up to? Nothing much. Still buying clobber. Got myself a pair of Nike Elites in red and white colourway, some Adidas LA Trainers, a pair of Nudie jeans and Fjall raven Telemark II in olive. A very nice piece that Telemark and my very first Fjall Raven piece too. Looking to get some shoes to go with it. Might have a look at some Grisport or Finn Comforts, fuck knows. I'm not too fussed as I've loads of shoes and trainers that would go with it.

Not sure if any one's interested, I wouldn't blame anyone if they weren't cause I don't half talk some shit, but I'm going to give the old dust a bit of a break. Not that I have a dust problem, just that I find myself ending up in some strange places on it. Like at some fat ginger bird's flat at four in the morning with her fat sweaty pussy suffocating me while her fat, goofy mate's covered my cock in chocolate and noshing me off.

25 years in the game

It is true to say the eagle eye of every casual is always on alert, always pinching and sneaking the newest unseen label and look, the best line against your classic retro trainers and so on.
This led me to wonder about the remergence of the 'complete' look.
And over recent weeks this has become more and more prevalent at W12, among a distinctive few.
The look of the ‘elite’ as Diadora put it, above the rest , totally obsessed with your style and the latest styles is how I see casual.
Well having been obsessed for all these years and chatted to numerous like minded people over the past few, now really seems to be the time that casuals are stepping up the pace and moving the fashion and style on.
A total look seems to start from the first point of everyday, even with unseen items such as socks and so on.
As such I have also found myself hunting for bargains the same as anyone else, and found Farah trousers in Matalan for £19, the classic original trouser, which produces a great line hanging against trainers and also Pringle socks and or Tacchini under crackers for a £5 at TK Maxx.
I have also begun, well for a while now, but bare with me, shaving products such as Geo Trumper just to know that I am using the best available. Being bald it’s similar to the attention to detail I would have paid to my wedge hair cut all those years ago.
So to spot a few items completing looks on fellow supporters a few weekends ago was warmly welcomed. First new item I spied was the arrival of Aquascutum and Victorinox leather gloves, but my personal favourite has been the exchange from the old classic golf umbrella to superb wooden handled Armani brollies.
And it is this side of things which is slowly altering the heavily sports labelled look associated with QPR, towards a more all round casual style, making it harder for the undiscerning eye to spot the styles and labels.
The deerstalker hats cannot be far away now I think. But how far can too far go? not sure myself, maybe the Benetton rugby tops of old, were a step too far. I hated them. the next few months will be of interest to see what emerges.
In a similar vain, having thumbed through Neal Heard’s Trainers book which literally follows trainers from conception to current day recently, I also wondered if there is a book that pictorially covers the history of casual?
I recently bought A Casual Look: A photo-diary of football fans, 1980s to 2001, only to find it falls someway short of a total reportage of the fashion and is more colloquial. Concentrating on certain clubs, it is more a fan ideal than the casual fashion, although still a very commendable book and great read.
With the fashion changing all the time though, would it be possible to truly capture casual?

Colonel

The publishers of a new book about friendship set against the football casual backdrop of the early 90's rave scene, is set to be published and on sale on Amazon by April 6th. The publishers kindly sent all readers of this blog a sneak preview of chapter 1 of the book. http://content.yudu.com/Library/A148jy/DecadeChapter1

Obviously it's not enough to make a qualified judgment of the book overall from this one extract, but from what we've read so far, it looks like it could have genuine potential. This is what the publishers say:

"DECADE BY PAT W HENDERSEN

The ultimate betrayal between best friends can be the most casual thing in the world!

When wide boy Martin Bridges decides to take Colin Nichols under his wing, events conspire to send both him and his protégé hurtling headwards into Scotland's murky criminal underworld. But as they go deeper, could it be that the tables are being turned? Could Colin be taking the lead from his friend? Could Martin be losing his grip? And when betrayals are exposed, how far will they go to stay in control?

A tale of unlikely friendship and betrayal set against the contrasting backgrounds of football casual violence and the peace and harmony of the early nineties rave scene. Decade is a tale of young lives being lived to the full and friendships put to the test."

Have a read and make your own minds up.

Labels: books, news